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What’s old is new again: Fermenting in Buffalo
This article originally appeared in the July 2016 “Foodie 40” issue of Buffalo Spree Magazine. For more of that issue, go here. Many Buffalonians may remember ceramic crocks full of shredded cabbage or garlicky green cucumbers parked in dark corners of their Oma or Babcia’s kitchens. What our grandmothers knew—and a new generation of health […]
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I HAD to go eat burgers.
These write-ups originally appeared in the April 2016 “Burger” issue of Spree Magazine. If reading about burgers is your thing, find more at the magazine’s website posting, which highlights a few more pieces from this print feature. The Classic Cheeseburger Location: Grover’s Bar & Grill, 9160 Transit Road, East Amherst, 636-1803 (follow them on Facebook) Category: Traditional This beefy, no-frills behemoth […]
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A beer-inspired harvest meal
Sometimes people give me a reason to play with food. And because I write for magazines with open-minded editors, those reasons become my job. I love my job. This is a piece I put together for WNY Craft Beer Magazine’s fall issue, about pairing local beers with quintessentially fall foods grown around here. Kevin and […]
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Local farmers, local chefs
In Vermont, chef-farmer partnerships are normal. Expected. Taken for granted, even. In other parts of the country – Buffalo included – the Sysco truck still fills the walk-ins at most restaurants. More Queen City area growers and culinary artisans, though, are seeing the value in forming partnerships that benefit the field, the fork, the patron, […]
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I went to 16 wineries for work
And wrote this feature story for the 2014 issue of Niagara Wine Magazine detailing the character of each winery on the Niagara Wine Trail. Turns out there are some really cool things happening up there – it’s not all sickeningly sweet whites anymore! Grape varietals that are new to this country, blends that are surprising and deep, […]
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From kimmelweck to kimchi
How immigrants and refugees continue to shape Buffalo’s foodscape Like many former industrial cities in the northern United States, Buffalo’s food roots are deeply entrenched in the soils of other countries. Several of the dishes we now claim as this city’s signatures came here in the minds and hearts of first the Germans, who left […]
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Water into Wine
As the rain started to turn the mounds of snow into rivers of slush today, the sky signaled the impending “in between” season – that restless time after gentle snowfalls and cross country skiing mark full-blown winter, but before the green buds and singing birds get us excited for warmer weather. It’s only February and […]
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Old school turkeys
Every year around this time, my brain automatically brings up a vivid but strange image from my past. I’m crouched down in a muddy pasture, trying like hell to keep my fingers from freezing, surrounded on all sides by several dozen turkeys. They’re wearing dark, creepy feathers and making sounds that are a mix of […]
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Hurricane Irene: Three Farms, One Town, One Storm.
One of the most difficult stories I’ve covered in the ten years I’ve been a journalist, but the resilience of farmers its a story always worth telling. This story originally appeared in Vermont’s Local Banquet in December 2011. Three Farms, One Town, One Storm
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Beeswax: Natural light
This story originally appeared in Vermont’s Local Banquet Magazine’s March 2011 issue as part of a larger compilation called “The Best Farm Products You Can’t Eat.” A man-made beehive sounds and looks like a buzzing filing cabinet: a rectangular box in which 10 evenly spaced, wood-framed screens made of wax or plastic are inserted like hanging folders. […]
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von Trapps: A Food and Farming Legacy
I’m not going to pretend that having schnitzel with Johannes von Trapp – the youngest of the actual von Trapp children – at his family’s lodge in Vermont didn’t send me into carefully contained fits. It did. Just as much as the beer he and his son are producing on the property and the cheese […]
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Rockville Market Farm: A winter squash wonderland
This article originally appeared in the winter 2009 issue of Edible Green Mountain magazine. Winter squash is a demure vegetable whose lure isn’t as bawdy as a screaming red tomato or as fragile as the crisp spring pea. Their hard skins in dark, pine needle green, sunset crimson, and striated gold protect squash’s treasured flesh […]